Grand Central Market | Press Coverage | Los Angeles Times | By Jonathan Gold Your next great meal in Southern California is as likely to come from that tiny storefront next to the 7-Eleven as it is from a Beverly Hills gastronomic palace.
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Los Angeles Times
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Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants
November 04, 2015

By Jonathan Gold

Your next great meal in Southern California is as likely to come from that tiny storefront next to the 7-Eleven as it is from a Beverly Hills gastronomic palace. Los Angeles, which is both where American ideas about food tend to be formulated and where they come back eventually to die, can be a spectacular place to eat.

Welcome to the best of the L.A.-area restaurant scene, 2015. To save your favorites and explore a map, get the app.

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GCM

27. Grand Central Market

If you drop by Egg Slut late on a Sunday morning, you will find a long, sleepy line of breakfasters running through Grand Central Market, curling around the diner counter, edging past the Mexican seafood concession and eventually running into the crowd waiting for a crack at the lox and pastrami emerging from the smokers at Wexler's Deli. The macadamia-milk lattes at G&B are good enough to make coffee people babble in tongues. Belcampo serves what is arguably the best hamburger in town, sourced from the meat they raise themselves in the shadow of Mt. Shasta (which you can buy in the adjacent butcher shop). The fish stew assembled in the steam kettles at Mark Peel's Bombo reminds you why his Campanile was considered one of Americas great restaurants for so many years, and the chef is usually there to assemble it for you himself. Lydia Clarke of DTLA Cheese is the cheesemonger equivalent of a primo indie record store clerk. Madcapra serves its stunning if unconventional falafel with its own hand-fermented zhug. The warm, crusty baguettes from the Clark Street cart are superb. In the last couple of years, Grand Central Market has transformed itself from a tired, half-empty collection of food stalls into an essential food center that should be on the agenda of every visitor to L.A. Owner Adele Yellin has managed to renovate the old market, a downtown fixture since 1917, without losing the splendid carnitas from Las Morelianas, the dried chiles at Valeria's or the gorditas from Roast to Go. There has been controversy. But people on both sides of the gentrification debate seem to agree on the necessity of an Egg Slut egg and cheese.

 

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